Professionalism, Power And The Politics of Appearance
Is the Ukrainian president giving us a masterclass on professionalism and workplace bullying?
What does it mean to “look professional”? For generations, the answer has been straightforward: a crisp suit, polished shoes, a neatly styled appearance. Professionalism has long been defined visually, with rigid expectations about who fits the mold and who does not. The suit, in particular, has been a marker of power, privilege, and hierarchy, reinforcing a narrow image of what leadership looks like.
But times are changing. Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy’s decision to forgo the traditional suit in favor of military-style attire is not just an act of protest—it is a reflection of a broader shift in how we define professionalism. His choice highlights the tension between outdated norms and the evolving understanding that leadership and capability are not dictated by clothing .
For marginalized professionals—Black women who are forced to navigate hair discrimination, non-binary individuals who struggle with gendered dress codes, or workers who cannot afford the “costume” of success—professional attire has often been more about exclusion than empowerment. And in corporate spaces, where bullying often masquerades as strong leadership, rigid professionalism can be weaponized to maintain hierarchy rather than foster genuine inclusion.
The Suit As A Symbol: Power, Privilege And Corporate Hierarchy
The modern business suit originated in the aristocratic courts of Europe and evolved into the ultimate symbol of professionalism. It was never just about fashion—it was a uniform designed to project power, discipline, and credibility.
For those who fit the traditional mold, the suit is a tool of access and authority. But for others, it is a barrier. Women entering the corporate world were historically forced to adopt skirt suits and shoulder pads to “mirror” male leadership. Black professionals have been scrutinized for natural hairstyles despite wearing the same suit as their white counterparts. Non-binary and trans individuals often find themselves choosing between gendered clothing expectations and their own identity.
The problem with tying professionalism to appearance is that some people can wear the “costume” easily, while others are never seen as fully belonging, no matter how well they dress the part .
The 'Costume' Of Professionalism And Workplace Bullying
Professionalism, much like leadership, is often more about performance than practice. In many workplaces, corporate dress codes don’t just set expectations—they reinforce power dynamics and create subtle forms of exclusion.
Corporate bullying doesn’t always come in the form of yelling or open hostility. Sometimes, it looks like exclusionary dress codes that dictate what is "appropriate" while targeting marginalized identities. It looks like a Black woman being told her natural hair is “unprofessional.” It looks like a non-binary professional struggling to find business attire that aligns with their identity. It looks like an employee being subtly undermined for not conforming to an unspoken, racialized, or gendered standard of “professional appearance.”
[Related Article: Strong Leadership Masked as Bullying]
These forms of exclusion send a message: you don’t belong here unless you look like us. And when professionalism is framed as a hierarchy, rather than a set of values rooted in competence and respect, workplace bullying thrives under the guise of “maintaining standards.”
Zelenskyy And The Rejection Of Performative Professionalism
Zelenskyy’s choice to forgo the traditional power suit is more than a practical wartime decision—it is a powerful statement about redefining leadership. His olive green T-shirts and military-style gear signal action over appearance, authenticity over tradition.
Yet, despite the dire circumstances of war, his clothing has drawn criticism from those who still equate professionalism with polished formality. This reaction reveals how deeply ingrained our expectations of professional dress remain. Even in moments of crisis, there is a cultural instinct to police what a leader should look like.
His rejection of the suit mirrors a broader shift happening in corporate spaces—a push to move beyond rigid, exclusionary professional norms and toward more authentic, flexible expressions of leadership.
The Future Of Professionalism: Moving Beyond Appearance
If we accept that a suit does not make a leader, why do we still insist that certain looks define professionalism?
Workplaces are slowly evolving. Business casual is more common, remote work has reshaped office norms, and industries like tech have already broken away from the rigid suit-and-tie expectation. But the real shift needs to be deeper. Professionalism should not be about conformity; it should be about competence, ethics, and respect.
A more inclusive definition of professionalism means:
- Recognizing that authenticity matters more than artificial polish .
- Moving beyond surface-level appearance to prioritize skills, leadership, and impact.
- Abandoning outdated dress codes that reinforce gender norms, racial bias, and class-based exclusion.
- Creating workplaces that are not just diverse, but truly inclusive, where all employees can show up as themselves without sacrificing credibility.
A Call To Rethink Professionalism
Corporate bullying and rigid professional dress codes share a common thread: they both uphold unnecessary power structures that prioritize control over competence. Just as workplace cultures need to evolve to root out bullying disguised as “tough leadership,” they also need to let go of exclusionary dress expectations that do more to gatekeep than to uplift.
Zelenskyy’s rejection of the suit is more than a personal choice—it’s a reflection of a world moving toward authenticity over outdated hierarchy. The real challenge is whether corporate spaces are willing to make the same shift.
It’s time to ask: What if professionalism wasn’t about appearance, but about the work itself?
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Photo by Digital Solacism on Unsplash
